Huk wentylatora. Otwieram mini lodówkę Sanyo z nadzieją, że pięciolitrowa butelka wody, którą tam przed kilkoma godzinami włożyłem jest już zimna. Jest gorąco. W moim pokoju panuje ogromny zaduch, niczym na nieprzewiewnym poddaszu gdzieś w środku upalnego polskiego lata.
Właśnie wróciłem z wyprawy po piwo, którego normalnie tak bez okazji nie piję, ale które chciałem kupić, bo jest przede wszystkim zimne no i śmiesznie tanie. Jest po dziewiątej wieczorem, a wszystkie sklepy okazują się być już pozamykane. Gdzieś po drodze mijam dom, z którego lecą stare, sentymentalne przeboje. Przy wejściu siedzi dziadek, a obok stoi butelka rumu. Pytam o najbliższy otwarty sklep, a w odpowiedzi dostaję drewniany kieliszek rumu, który po namyśle zapijam zimną wodą. W sumie nie piwo, ale też może być.
Ostatnie kilka dni minęło pod znakiem totalnego chaosu. Jeszcze tydzień temu byłem w Polsce, schowany w swoim bezpiecznym, acz uciążliwym bąbelku, a dzisiaj mieszkam w podłym pensjonacie w jakiejś zabitej dechami dziurze na wyspie Margarita w zrujnowanej przez kryzys Wenezueli. Żeby tutaj dotrzeć musiałem odbyć podróż czterema samolotami, dwoma autobusami i jednym pociągiem. Przesiadając się w Brukseli, Madrycie, aż w końcu w Caracas. Na miejscu jestem zaledwie trzy dni, różnica czasu w porównaniu z Polską to pięć i pół godziny, wystarczająco, żeby zdezorientować. Nie wiem co ci Wenezuelczycy wymyślili sobie, żeby w przeciwieństwie do reszty świata ustalić strefę czasową z dokładnością do pół godziny, jednak chyba wreszcie poszli po rozum do głowy, bo prezydent Maduro zdecydował o przesunięciu czasu o pół godziny do przodu, oficjalnie niby celem oszczędzenia energii.
Woda w lodówce cały czas ciepła, a ja powoli przyzwyczajam się do nowych nawyków, m.in. wstawiania butelki odpowiednio wcześniej. W mojej mini lodówce znajduje się nawet zamrażarka, wydzielony kawałek o rozmiarze półtora decymetra sześciennego. Nijak nie zmieścisz żadnej butelczyny, nijak nie schłodzisz szybciej. Wkrótce również orientuję się, że żeby przetrwać palącą suszę, jaką napotkałem podczas mojego pobytu w Wenezueli, muszę dywersyfikować metody chłodzenia. Stąd też odpalone prawie non stop dwa wentylatory, otwarte na oścież drzwi i przyjemny przedpołudniowy przeciąg, oczywiście zimna woda i redukcja ubrania do minimum. Nic to, bo po południu i tak zazwyczaj legnę w tej beznadziejnej walce: przyjemny wiatr ustaje, a temperatura powietrza wzrasta do ponad 30 stopni Celsjusza. Zostaje jedynie silna wola i nabyta drogą medytacji umiejętność koncentracji, która gdzieś tam i tak po dwóch tygodniach tego upalnego szaleństwa kończy się, razem ze sto pięćdziesiątym ósmym zapianiem koguta, zawyciem osiołka i gulgotem biegającego za oknem indyka…
Wieczorem przychodzi ulga. Wraz ze zmierzchem na nowo pojawia się przyjemna bryza i można wreszcie odetchnąć. Mimo wszystko, po tak upalnym dniu pracować się już nie chce i jedyne co pozostaje to YouTube, serial lub rozmowa z sąsiadami. Ta ostatnia bywa interesująca, zwłaszcza na początku, zanim jeszcze wyczerpujemy większość tematów. Średnia wieku mieszkających obok mnie ludzi to jakieś 50 lat, mimo wszystko kontakt przychodzi bardzo łatwo. Nic dziwnego, jesteśmy przecież w Ameryce Łacińskiej, a mieszkający tu ludzie przeszli dużo i mają wiele do powiedzenia.
Zbliża się godzina dziewiętnasta. To wtedy właścicielka pensjonatu uruchamia pompę, która tłoczy resztki zgromadzonej w betonowym zbiorniku wody. Ze względu na suszę woda jest racjonowana. Pół godziny dziennie wystarcza mi na wzięcie prysznica, napełnienie dwóch wielkich miednic z wodą na zapas, spuszczenie wody w klozecie i napełnienie spłuczki na następny dzień, na większe potrzeby, dopóki woda znów nie popłynie o dziewiętnastej. Następnego dnia rano wezmę prysznic opłukując sę wodą z miednicy, do tego celu użyję małego garnka. Na Margaricie ponoć od trzech miesięcy nie padało. Po ulicach bezustannie jeżdżą cysterny z wodą, jeżeli komuś zależy na stałym dostępie do wody, to musi się liczyć z wydatkiem rzędu 6 dolarów za cysternę, czyli około 10 tysięcy litrów. Wydaje się śmiesznie tanio, jednak nie zapominajcie, że 6 dolarów to połowa stawki minimalnej.
Ten sam huk wentylatora. Otwieram lodówkę i nalewam sobie szklankę zimnej wody, do środka wciskam ćwiartkę limonki. To taka tutejsza cytryna, tylko mniejsza, zielona i prawie perfekcyjnie okrągła, używana właściwie w całej Ameryce Łacińskiej. Wydaje się być, swoją drogą, idealnym przedmiotem, żeby dla żartu rzucić w kogoś i nie wyrządzić krzywdy.
Jest już dwa tygodnie później, a ja nauczyłem się, jak przetrwać na gorącej wyspie. Z tą różnicą, że woda we współdzielonym zbiorniku już prawie się skończyła, toteż pompa uruchamiana jest teraz tylko raz na trzy dni. W poczuciu obowiązku właścicielka jednak pozwala mi korzystać ze swojego prysznica, który zasilany jest z prywatnego zbiornika, jednak nie rozwiązuje to wszystkich problemów, jak np. zmywania naczyń lub chociaż spuszczania wody w klozecie.
Z ramion i twarzy schodzi mi skóra. To oczywiście wina mocnego słońca, które spaliło mnie już w pierwsze dni pobytu na wyspie. Wyobraźcie sobie, że przyjeżdżacie do turystycznej miejscowości i szukacie taniego hotelu lub pensjonatu. W końcu natrafiacie na jeden lub dwa, jednak nic z tego, bo na miejscu nikogo nie ma. Czasem na drzwiach zostawiony jest numer telefonu, jednak co z tego, skoro jestem tu pierwszy dzień i nawet nie mam lokalnej karty SIM? Turystyka na Margaricie, poza nielicznymi miejscami, jest w agonii. Dlatego też w tanich pensjonatach przez większość dnia nikogo na miejscu nie ma, każdy zajęty jest inną pracą i kombinowaniem jak połączyć koniec z końcem. Teraz wyobraźcie sobie tego turystę z Polski, który drepta z plecakiem po tym niegdyś turystycznym miasteczku i szuka lokum. W krainie gdzie turyści nie jeżdżą autobusami, ale przyjeżdżają swoimi samochodami, w trzydziestostopniowym upale i bezlitośnie wiszącym nad głową słońcem. Po kilku godzinach znajduję wreszcie przyzwoity i tani hotel, jednak gdzieś w międzyczasie bagatelizuję sprawę i zapomniałem nałożyć filtr, więc ostatecznie wyglądam jak wyglądam. Szkoda, że nie zrobiłem zdjęcia, bo na sobie miałem koszulkę bez rękawów, toteż opaliłem jedynie ramiona oraz część klatki piersiowej, w najbardziej możliwy, przekomiczny sposób.
Ostatnie dni pobytu wynagradzają jednak tę beznadziejną walkę. Morze robi się przejrzyste i nabiera rajskiego, zielonego koloru. Warunki do surfingu poprawiają się, a ja siedząc na desce jak zahipnotyzowany co raz to patrzę na padający na piaszczyste dno cień mojej deski. Nadchodzące fale z bliska mienią się tysiącami drobnych odbić, niczym leżący na ziemii śnieg w mroźną, księżycową noc. Jeżeli nie widzieliście ani jednego, ani drugiego, to zdecydowanie powinniście, są to bowiem dwa z niesamowitych i niedocenianych cudów przyrody.
Tuż przed wyjazdem z Margarity waham się, czy nie zostać tu jeszcze na chwilę, plaża i surfing zaczynają wciągać mnie tak bardzo, że nic innego właściwie się już nie liczy. Decyzje tego typu zawsze przychodzą ciężko i ostatecznie już nie pamiętam, co powstrzymało mnie przed przełożeniem lotu do Meridy. Pamiętam jedynie tyle, że zawieram ze sobą układ, że jak zatęsknię za plażą to wrócę tu jeszcze tuż przed powrotem do Polski.
Za plażą zatęskniłem jeszcze zanim wyjechałem, ale, o ironio, jak tylko znalazłem się w Meridzie, to przeszło mi natychmiastowo i permanentnie.
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